Monthly Archives: June 2015

Indy250 PLUS Quad-Copter from RC Timer

 

Indy250 PLUS Quad-Copter from RCTimer.com

Completed quad-copter with FPV camera

Completed quad-copter with FPV camera

The Indy250 PLUS and the ELGAE FOV127 FPV200-set with LT200, V700 and FPV RTU cable(32CH) RP-SMA were $204 to the door. I already had a Radio (Taranis), Receiver (FrSky D6FR6) and Battery (2200ma 3S).

This is a Tarot frame Clone. Carbon Fiber and PCB design. It has LED lights built under the PCB and they are very bright. There is a connector for 12V and 4 connectors for 5V on the PCB. It has been designed for FPV and gives you the connectors to make FPV easy to install. The Flight Controller is the CC3D and the ESC pins are soldered inverted under the board. These plug into connectors soldered onto the PCB. It is really clean. The Skids are robust but not pretty.

I Attempted to follow the Ground Control Wizard as Suggested by the RC Timer assembly Video. Most of the changes would not save. I ended up setting each item up manually (under each tab) then things started cooperating. The CC3D seems to fly pretty well. I increased the stability some by decreasing the settings sliders under stabilization. I have the ability to change this setting by a three position switch on my Radio. Most of this was setup in the Ground Control Software. My Radio is a Taranis 9X which was covered in the video. I used the OpenTX model wizard to setup for a quad copter. It just does not get much easier than this!

The Speed Controls and the Motors have already been Soldered in place. The ESC are mounted directly to the PCB and the Motors are mounted. I found almost all the screws had been tightened properly. Very few were not as snug as I liked. You will need a 1.5mm allen head wrench and a couple of sizes of Phillips screwdrivers to check the screws.

Completion time was about 2 1/2 hours after I figured out the wizard was not working. No Soldering at all. I did crimp a two pin connector on to the FPV Camera wires so I could plug directly to the board 12V pins. I printed a camera mount for the FPV Camera. The mount was for a FatShark Camera Mount.  I had to flip it upside down and do some clipping with side cutters to get it into the right position. 3D printers come in very handy! Zip ties are very useful in assembling a quad-Copter.

I have flown out one battery so far and it flies pretty good! Very noisy due to the small, high RPM, props. They are 5X3 Gemfan props. The kit came with 38 total propeller’s. 8 Black, 8 Red, 8 Green, 8 Orange, then 2 Black and 2 Orange in a bag that were the original props included. I should be able to get through a few flights without worrying about needing propeller’s. There are bags of screws included in the kit. It looks like the kit was built then they threw in all the screws to build it again. So no worries about finding screws when they vibrate out!

Now for the bad!!

No real Instructions. There is a wiring diagram and exploded view that is called the manual. No battery strap is included. The XT60 connector is soldered into the PCB. I use Deans connectors So I needed an adapter. Luckily my brother had made one. I now have made my own.

The Ground Control Software Wizard does appear not to work properly, at least for me. Setting it up manually was not to bad, but takes a while when you are not experienced with the software. Most of your settings are in the CC3D Flight Control Board. I was familiar with my radio so that helped. The FC includes several different harnesses for different radio connections.

The Camera System that was listed with it cannot be mounted without an extra mount. It would be nice to see some other mount plate options.

There are no spare parts for this frame. There are no bare frames for purchase. So a serious crash could mean buying a whole new Quad. Hopefully RC Timer will get up and make parts or at least a bare frame for parts. No serious “Racer” is going to race a bird with no parts available!

Possible future Changes:

I would like to move the battery from on top to between the skids. This would mean de-soldering the power connector (XT60) and moving it underneath. It is a through hole PCB so this should be possible. This would move the CG down in the quad. Then the Receiver could be moved to the top plate instead of underneath. I would change the power connector to a deans or a EC3 connector.

So overall a nice Quad that is easy to set up and get running. No soldering for those that don’t want that challenge. If bought with the Camera system then you can go FPV without any soldering necessary. And you should be able to have it flying within a few hours!

But it is going to stay in the starter class until RC Timer makes parts available!